Barathea wool is considered the classic choice for formal dinner suits. Heavier than anything you'll find on today's high street, a good barathea will last a lifetime and never look out of place. Vintage barathea DJs are widely available, quality is routinely excellent, and so is value for money.
A velvet dinner jacket is a more 'dandy' alternative, perhaps. Originally derived from the smoking jacket and often still described as such. Silk-velvet examples are highly sought-after, and rightly so.
At first, black tie 'rules' might appear somewhat rigid and prescriptive but, as always, the enjoyment is in the detail! Subtle variations in cut and finish enable savvy chaps to reflect their individual tastes without ever appearing immodest (that would, of course, constitute the height of bad manners).
Mr Tiernan's favoured cut is a 1 button single-breasted with grosgrain peak lapel. What will you choose?Read more
We want you to be confident about your purchase from us. We use this clear and specific grading system to ensure that you know what to expect:
Grading
Mint: An item that is as perfect and pristine as when it was originally made and shows no sign of wear (mint condition is rare for vintage clothing).
Deadstock: An item that has remained unworn in it's original packaging for several years (sometimes decades).
Immaculate: An item that appears to have had very little wear.
Excellent: An item that shows very minor signs of wear from occasional use but has no significant flaws.
Very Good: An item that would be considered 'Excellent' but for some minor flaws.
Good: An item that is wearable but has some obvious flaws.
Restoration: An item has significant flaws but its historical value merits an investment.
Cleaning
All items are steamed, inside and out, prior to dispatch. Unlike some abrasive cleaners, steam is both penetrating and gentle at the same time. By effectively rehydrating and breaking the bonds of muck and dirt, it's highly effective at spot-cleaning and deodorising without rough treatment. Many manufacturers are now building steam technology into their latest washing machines and dryers. We recommend dry cleaning before storing items out of season, e.g. when putting overcoats away at the end of winter / spring.
Note: Even after steam or dry cleaning, items that are several decades old should not be expected to smell like new.
Measuring Guide
How do I know it will fit?
The size that we show in the item title is the ‘size to fit the wearer’. Where applicable, the suffix (Regular / Short / Long) denotes the length fitting:
R = Regular fitting (for chaps between 5’ 7" – 5’ 11" tall) S = Short fitting (5’ 2" – 5’ 6" tall) L = Long fitting (6’- 6’ 5" tall)
For example, if your chest measures 42 inches, and you are 5' 9" tall, a jacket or coat listed as ‘42R’ will likely be a good fit. When estimating the ‘size to fit’ we take into account the garment cut & how it is meant to be worn.
Measurements
For extra reassurance we also show the actual measurements for each garment. You can use these measurements to compare to garments that you already own. This information is most important when considering the purchase of a bespoke tailored piece that, by it's nature, will not be cut to a standard pattern.
All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat. Measurements are displayed in 'old money', i.e. inches. For conversion into 'new money'; 1 inch = 2.54cms.
Jackets, Coats with standard sleeve, Morning Coats and Evening Tailcoats
a = underarm to underarm b = across fastening c = underarm to cuff d = shoulder to cuff
Measured at back:
e = shoulder f = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
Raglan sleeve coats
a = underarm to underarm b = underarm to cuff
Measured at back:
c = sleeve from centre of nape to cuff measured along seam d = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
Waistcoats
a = underarm to underarm b = length from shoulder seam to parallel with tips
Measured at back:
c = length from nape of neck to hem
How to measure yourself
It's helpful, but not essential, to know your actual measurements. You’ll need a tailor’s tape measure and someone to help you.
Chest: With your arms at your sides, measure around the fullest part of your chest, across shoulder blades and under arms.
Trouser Waist: Measure the waist below the navel. The measuring tape should be snug (do not measure over your belt). Tell the truth!
Inside Leg: Unless you know each other intimately, this measurement is done with trousers on! Place the measuring tape at the crotch of the trousers and measure down to the bottom of the ankle.
A few points to remember
We sometimes need to ignore the size labels on vintage garments as they were often sized a little smaller in the old days. Over the years we have got used to ‘vanity' sizing! (The one exception is vintage overcoat sizing.) Also, garments may have been altered by a previous owner.
Alterations
Q: What alterations are possible?
A: Jacket chest and sleeve, and trouser waist and leg are all usually straightforward. Morning coats can be difficult due to their panel method of construction. Jackets with working cuff buttons can be altered from the shoulder, but there is more time and skill involved so expect to pay accordingly. Approximate costs:
Alteration to jacket chest, £25 Sleeve alteration at cuff, £15 Sleeve alteration at shoulder, £60 Take in /let out trouser waist, £10 Shorten / let down trouser leg, £10
Q: Can you do the alteration for me, prior to dispatch?
A: No, simply because you need to try the items on first to ensure the alterations are accurate. Most alterations are straightforward and can be carried out by any competent local alterer. Garments cannot be returned after they have been altered.
Q: How many sizes up / down is it possible to alter?
A: One size up or down, e.g to change a 42 down to a 40 or up to a 44, is almost always feasible. Much beyond that can start to affect the balance / proportions of the rest of the garment.
Delivery
We dispatch orders Monday to Thursday. We do not dispatch on Fridays.
UK (inc. BFPO) & ISLE OF MAN
Charged by order weight
Standard Delivery (4-5 working days): from £3.75
Next Working Day Delivery (Mon-Fri): from £9.35 (order by 1pm Thursday)
DHL 48: from £10.45
Next Day delivery is available to mainland UK addresses. Delivery to IOM & Scottish Highlands is within 2 working days. Delivery times to Scottish Islands vary. Next day delivery is not available to BFPO addresses.
JERSEY & GUERNSEY
Orders are dispatched by Royal Mail. Delivery times are broadly similar to the UK, subject to customs clearance. Price is dependent on total order weight - calculated and displayed at checkout.
WORLDWIDE SHIPPING
We ship to over 50 countries throughout Europe,North America and Asia. We use Royal Mail and other courier services. Price is dependent on destination and total order weight - calculated and displayed at checkout.
TERMS & CONDITIONS
UK - in the event of a return, we refund the Standard Delivery charge. Other delivery charges are non-refundable.
Overseas - delivery charges are non-refundable.
Very remote overseas locations may incur a courier imposed surcharge (only applicable to orders over 2kg in weight). This must be paid by yourself before we can dispatch your order. We will send you a link to make payment.
Delivery will be made to the address specified by you on the completed order form. Royal Mail and other courier services are used.
It is your responsibility to check the tracking information using the link we give you when when we dispatch your order. If your order is returned to us because you have not collected it from the post office or courier you must pay a re-delivery charge (same amount as the original delivery charge subject to a minimum charge of £4.95) before we can re-send your order.The original delivery charge cannot be refunded. Any additional charges levied by the carrier for the return of an uncollected / declined order must be paid by yourself.
If your order cannot be delivered because the address you have given us is incomplete or incorrect, or unsuitable (e.g. couriers will not normally deliver to an unmanned P.O Box / locker) you must pay a re-delivery charge (the same amount as the original delivery charge subject to a minimum charge of £4.95) before we can re-send your order. In some cases, carriers will also apply a surcharge - this must be paid by yourself before we can resend your item. The original delivery charge cannot be refunded.
Any VAT, import duty and customs handling fees payable are the responsibility of the buyer.
Credit Codes cannot be used to pay for delivery charges.
Delivery times are not guaranteed unless stated.
Returns
It's often possible to alter garments to fit, and at very reasonable cost. Locating an experienced tailor / alterer in your area will increase your opportunities to secure items and ensure you are always able to get the maximum enjoyment from your purchases.
HOW TO RETURN SOMETHING TO US
There's no need to tell us that you are returning items (unless your item is damaged or you believe we have sent the wrong item). Fill out the returns form enclosed with your order invoice and send it with your returned item(s) within 28 days of delivery. If you have lost your returns form, please include a note of your order number and the reason for return. The feedback you give us will help all customers.
UK RETURNS (excludes Channel Islands)
Please return your item to us at the address shown further down this page.
OVERSEAS RETURNS (includes Channel Islands)
Please return your item to us at the address shown further down this page. Important: Please clearly mark the package 'GOODS RETURNED TO MERCHANT UNDER RETURNS POLICY'. If the package is not marked in this way then it may incur customs charges which we would have to deduct from the amount to be refunded.
TERMS & CONDITIONS
We accept returns for any reason provided that the items have not been used or altered by yourself, are in the same condition as when we dispatched them, and our garment tags have not been removed.
We will not give a refund, exchange or credit note for any items not returned to us within 28 days of delivery.
The 28 day returns period starts when your item is delivered to either your shipping address, or any alternative address (e.g. Post Office or neighbour) in the event that delivery cannot be made to your shipping address. It is your responsibility to check tracking information (we send you a link when we dispatch your item).
Returned items are your responsibility until they are delivered to us. Ensure they are appropriately wrapped and secured. We recommend that you obtain a proof of posting.
UK returns - 'Tracked Delivery' & 'Overnight Delivery' charges are not refundable.
Return postage costs are not refundable.
Overseas returns - outward shipping charges are not refundable. Return shipping costs must be paid by yourself.
Return shipping costs are not refundable.
OUR RETURNS ADDRESS
Savvy Row (Returns) The Old Goods Yard Commercial Road West Coxhoe Durham DH6 4HJ United Kingdom
25/0032 city of london 2006 bespoke black barathea evening trouser (minor damage) 40
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