The size that we show in the item title is the ‘size to fit the wearer’. Where applicable, the suffix (Regular / Short / Long) denotes the length fitting:
R = Regular fitting (for chaps between 5’ 7" – 5’ 11" tall)
S = Short fitting (5’ 2" – 5’ 6" tall)
L = Long fitting (6’- 6’ 5" tall)
For example, if your chest measures 42 inches, and you are 5' 9" tall, a jacket or coat listed as ‘42R’ will likely be a good fit. When estimating the ‘size to fit’ we take into account the garment cut & how it is meant to be worn.
For extra reassurance we also show the actual measurements for each garment. You can use these measurements to compare to garments that you already own. This information is most important when considering the purchase of a bespoke tailored piece that, by it's nature, will not be cut to a standard pattern.
All measurements are taken with the garment laid flat. Measurements are displayed in 'old money', i.e. inches. For conversion into 'new money'; 1 inch = 2.54cms.
a = underarm to underarm
b = across fastening
c = underarm to cuff
d = shoulder to cuff
Measured at back:
e = shoulder
f = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
a = underarm to underarm
b = underarm to cuff
Measured at back:
c = sleeve from centre of nape to cuff measured along seam
d = length (excluding collar) from nape of neck to hem
a = underarm to underarm
b = length from shoulder seam to parallel with tips
Measured at back:
c = length from nape of neck to hem
It's helpful, but not essential, to know your actual measurements. You’ll need a tailor’s tape measure and someone to help you.
Chest: With your arms at your sides, measure around the fullest part of your chest, across shoulder blades and under arms.
Trouser Waist: Measure the waist below the navel. The measuring tape should be snug (do not measure over your belt). Tell the truth!
Inside Leg: Unless you know each other intimately, this measurement is done with trousers on! Place the measuring tape at the crotch of the trousers and measure down to the bottom of the ankle.
We sometimes need to ignore the size labels on vintage garments as they were often sized a little smaller in the old days. Over the years we have got used to ‘vanity' sizing! (The one exception is vintage overcoat sizing.) Also, garments may have been altered by a previous owner.
Q: What alterations are possible?
A: Jacket chest and sleeve, and trouser waist and leg are all usually straightforward. Morning coats can be difficult due to their panel method of construction. Jackets with working cuff buttons can be altered from the shoulder, but there is more time and skill involved so expect to pay accordingly. Approximate costs:
Alteration to jacket chest, £25
Sleeve alteration at cuff, £15
Sleeve alteration at shoulder, £60
Take in /let out trouser waist, £10
Shorten / let down trouser leg, £10
Q: Can you do the alteration for me, prior to dispatch?
A: No, simply because you need to try the items on first to ensure the alterations are accurate. Most alterations are straightforward and can be carried out by any competent local alterer. Garments cannot be returned after they have been altered.
Q: How many sizes up / down is it possible to alter?
A: One size up or down, e.g to change a 42 down to a 40 or up to a 44, is almost always feasible. Much beyond that can start to affect the balance / proportions of the rest of the garment.
